From 28 July to 7 August 2024, after my first cruise last summer, it was time for me to sail away again! A cruise with the AIDA Perla, a large ship in the Hyperion class, was on the cards. This time I was travelling to Norway – a country that had been at the top of my travel wish list for some time. The focus of the trip was on Norwegian fjords. In addition to stops in Eidfjord, Flam, Trondheim, Andalsnes, Molde, Hellesylt, Geiranger and Alesund, the impressive Innvikfjord Passage was also on the agenda.
AIDA Perla: Some facts
The Perla has been sailing the world’s oceans since 2017. It is 300 meters long, 37.6 meters wide, has 18 decks, 1643 cabins and suites, and 15 restaurants and bars. Of course, there are also pools (6 of them), a large wellness area with several saunas and a fitness center.
Highlights are certainly the beach club under a foil dome (regardless of the weather), the glass skywalk at a height of 45 meters and the activity deck with a double water slide and a climbing park. So, there should be no chance of boredom here!
Although the AIDA Perla is clearly designed for families, couples, single travelers and adults travelling in groups also get their money’s worth.
My home for the next 10 days: Cabin 10295
For my first time in Norway, I treated myself to a veranda cabin in the center of deck 10, which offered me plenty of space. My favorite part was the spacious balcony with 2 deckchairs and a hammock. The hammock was my absolute favorite place over the next few days! Lying in it and daydreaming while the overwhelming nature of Norway and the Norwegian fjords passes you by is priceless! My wallet will be crying for a while yet, but I won’t regret this investment and can only recommend every Norway cruiser to do the same. Being able to sit on the balcony with a coffee early in the morning during the fjord passages and enjoy the sunrise – you can’t put a price on that!
First Stop: Eidfjord
The entrance to Eidfjord, an offshoot of the famous Hardangerfjord, is an experience in itself. That’s why I was drawn on board deck 15 at 3.30 a.m. to experience my very first fjord entry up close. Sleep is overrated!
First, we passed the striking Hardanger Bridge, a deep suspension bridge over the Eidfjord. The bridge’s pylons stand on land because the fjord is almost 500 meters deep. It is an impressive structure, also because it has a span of more than 1300 meters. This makes it the 10th longest bridge in the world! When you approach it by boat, you get the impression that it’s going to be a very close call. But it was fine, and we made it safely to the other side!
A short time later, at the end of the fjord, we made out Eidford, the idyllic little town to the east of Bergen. Less than 1000 people live here – that’s one inhabitant per square kilometer. A population density that I, as a resident of the densely populated Ruhr region, can only dream of.
The sun was shining and glittered silvery in the water. The surrounding mountains also appeared in a broad spectrum of colors, and I could hardly wait to get off the boat and explore the community more closely.
Voringfossen waterfall
On the advice of a friend who had been here before, I first visited the Voringfossen waterfall. I had booked return transport via Get your Guide, which worked perfectly. We arrived at our destination after a 25-minute journey and had 70 minutes to spend there. Enough time to explore all the viewpoints at our leisure. Efforts have been made to develop the area for the heaps of tourists that arrive here daily. Viewing platforms and paths were built in 2018. A bridge over the waterfall was added in 2020.
Nevertheless, you should wear good hiking boots and be sure-footed if you want to fully explore the sloping terrain. The rocks can be slippery and often there’s nothing to hold on to. The waterfall itself is one of Norway’s most famous sights. The masses of water plunge 182 meters down from the Hardangervidda plateau into the Måbødalen valley. Extremely impressive to watch. At least as beautiful is the gorgeous nature surrounding it: fields and meadows, flowers, mountains as far as the eye can see.
Hike to Lake Eidfjord
For the afternoon, I had chosen a seven-kilometer circular hike to Lake Eidfjord. It was a marvelous experience in bright sunshine! At first, the route was at ground level and always straight ahead along a small river to Lake Eidfjord. Once we arrived at Lake Eidfjord, it was time to pause and soak up the beauty of the lake. A few people lingered on the small beach on the shore and a few even ventured into the fresh, crystal-clear water of the lake.
On the way back, there was a steady uphill section that definitely spiked my heart rate up. But it’s worth persevering, as you are constantly rewarded with marvelous views. You also pass various old Viking burial sites – recognizable by the piled up stones. History truly is crazy!
Recommendation: Try a Cinnamon Bun!
Once you return from the hike, there are some nice shops and souvenir shops in the village itself.
I can also recommend the small bakery with an adjoining café, which offers all kinds of Norwegian delicacies. Of course I had to try a cinnamon bun here. However, be warned that the Norwegian prices are quite high. I paid a good 13 euros for an iced coffee (cold coffee with milk and ice cubes) and a cinnamon bun. Over the course of the trip, I learnt that this was actually a good average price. When I think about how much I sometimes grumble about the really moderate prices at home in comparison…
But it was worth it: the Norwegian Kanelboller cannot be compared in any way to the cinnamon buns I know from home: they are fluffy, very buttery and filled with lots of cinnamon. They taste best when slightly warm.
Second Stop: Flam
Flam is also located in the center of a fjord: more precisely, the Sognefjord, the beauty of which we were able to admire while sailing into the fjord for hours. The weather gods favored us again today and Flam showed itself from its most beautiful side. Norway is beautiful in whatever weather – but bathed in sunlight, it’s simply divine!
Excursion options: Flam railway – zipline – bike tour
Many people know Flam as the home of the Flam Railway. It is one of Norway’s main attractions and the route it takes – from the end of the Aurlandfjord up into the high mountains to Myrdal railway station at an altitude of 867 meters – is considered one of the most scenic train routes in the world. The journey takes about an hour. In Myrdal you then have connections to Bergen and Oslo.
However, many adventurous cruise day tourists decide to try out the Flam Zipline. With a span of 1381 meters, it is the longest zipline in Norway, covers 305 meters in altitude and reaches speeds of up to 100 km/h! Once you’ve plucked up the courage to embark on the speedy ride, you’ll be rewarded with a fantastic view. You can then hire bikes at the foot of the zipline and cycle the 20 kilometers or so back downhill to Flam. There are also some providers who offer the Flam Railway-Zipline bike tour as a complete package. My tip would be to book this well in advance, as this tour is very popular.
RIB boat tour through the Nærøyfjord
I myself had decided in advance to take a 2.5-hour RIB boat tour through the Nærøyfjord in Flam with Fjordsafari. This is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is uniquely beautiful. Seeing the fjords from above is always fascinating and beautiful – but experiencing them from the water is no less breathtaking. There is a separate blog entry about my RIB boat tour here.
Walk to the Brekkefossen waterfall in Flam
Back in Flam, it was time to explore the tourist shops, buy a slice of (very overpriced) pizza from the bakery (unfortunately the cinnamon bun was already out 😉) and then set off on a walk to the Brekkefossen waterfall. The waterfall can be seen from a long way off and you walk through fields and meadows to get to its foot. On the way there we met cattle and – of course – a troll! But then the leisurely stroll comes to an end, and you can opt to walk up about 600 stone steps to the top. Strenuous, but also worthwhile, as there are marvelous views on your way up. Once at the top, you can see the whole of Flam, which is idyllically framed by the surrounding mountains.
Innvikfjorden – Passage
After the overwhelming experiences in Eidjford and Flam, it was very relaxing to have a whole day at sea the next day! I spent most of my time in the hammock on my balcony, enjoying the passing scenery. The water here is crystal clear and you keep passing rushing waterfalls, picturesque villages, emerald green forests and mountains that are sometimes still covered in snow. The perfect way to wind down and recharge your batteries!
Third Stop: Trondheim
Up next on the agenda was the enchanting city of Trondheim. After Oslo and Bergen, it is the third largest municipality in the country. Over 210,000 people live here, around 30,000 of whom are students. As soon as we disembarked, we immediately felt the special flair that prevails here: small colourful houses, cafés, boutiques, museums and, of course, bicycles characterise the cityscape.
Leisurely Stroll: Exploring the City
We strolled through the wide shopping streets, saw the Stiftgsgarden (the official residence of the king), the lively market square (where a large food festival was taking place), the Nidarosdon, the bishop’s residence, the old city bridge (Gamble Bybroen) and last but not least, the old Kristiansten fortress.
The Olav Festival took place around the cathedral. You could eat, drink, admire handicrafts, buy delicacies or simply soak up the relaxed atmosphere at the numerous wooden stalls. I bought a pair of earrings in a dark turquoise colour before moving on. I can never quite resist jewellery!
Coffee Break Rec: Godt Brød
We stopped at Godt Brød (Norwegian for ‘good bread’) and ordered coffee and pastries. This time, on the advice of a friend, I ordered a cardamon bun instead of the cinnamon bun. Like the cinnamon bun, it smelled and tasted simply heavenly: buttery, fluffy, with a slight sweetness and cardamom. It felt like 1000 calories, but it was so worth it!
Fourth Stop: Andalsnes
The next morning I woke up to bright sunshine in Andalsnes harbour. The small village in the Romsdalsfjord has around 2400 inhabitants and is often referred to as the summit or mountaineering capital of Norway. The reason for this quickly becomes clear when you look around: There are many mountains to climb around the village.
As I am far from an experienced and ambitious climber, I decided to take the easier route to enjoy the majestic landscapes from above: By Romsdal gondola, a state-of-the-art electric cable car based on sustainability principles. The journey takes just 5 minutes. In just one hour, 460 tourists can be transported 708 metres up to the summit of Mount Nesaksla. Very impressive!
With the Romsdal Gondola up to Nesaksla
If you arrive in Andalsnes as a cruise tourist and, like us, only have a few hours to stay, you should endeavour to be one of the first to board the spacious gondolas: Long queues form quickly – and you also have to consider that it will also take some time to get down the mountain again!
I was at the gondola at 9am and only had to wait about 20 minutes before it was my turn. The gondola ride is very pleasant and there are marvellous panoramic views from the fully glazed gondola. Once at the top, you don’t even know where to look first, the natural surroundings are so beautiful and overwhelming.
Several viewing bridges and platforms offer 360-degree views of the surrounding mountains, the Romdalshorn, Andalsness, the magnificent valleys, deep fjords and the emerald-green river. If you like climbing, you can also discover wonderful places to linger and take a break away from the paved hiking trails. I recommend simply pausing for a few minutes, sitting down and taking in the panorama. The silence up here was my favourite thing, along with the stunning views. Problems, big or small, seem insignificant from up here.
In the Village: Golden Train and Cafés
All too soon, I unfortunately had to tear myself away from Nesaksla and head back down into the valley. A short walk through the tranquil village took me past the famous Golden Train, which takes tourists along the Rauma railway through the beautiful Romsdalen valley. This train route has also been honoured several times as the most beautiful train route in Europe. A few cafés and restaurants invite you to linger, and a few souvenir shops sell souvenirs. Unfortunately, the cinnamon buns at the bakery were already sold out – bad news for me, good news for the scales!
Back on the ship, it was time to say goodbye to Andalsnes as we headed towards the neighbouring Molde.
Fifth Stop: Molde: Stopover in the City of Roses
We reached Molde, also affectionately known as the ‘City of Roses’, less than 90 minutes later. Molde has around 22,000 inhabitants, is ten times the size of Andalsnes and is known for its annual jazz festival and the many beautiful roses that bloom here in abundance due to the mild climate. If you stroll towards the town hall square, you will also come across the bronze statue of the Rose Girl – a symbol of the town. The rose gardens are also located in the immediate vicinity and are well worth a visit.
As Molde itself doesn’t offer that many options, many of my fellow travellers opted for a 3-hour trip to the Atlantic coastal road. However, as I preferred to walk, I explored the town on foot and enjoyed a pecan bun with a view of the water – a variation of the cinnamon bun, which was unfortunately sold out again. The small Norwegian harbour towns are not prepared for the masses of cruise tourists who, like me, are on the hunt for cinnamon buns.
Six Stop: Geiranger
Geiranger was another highlight of my Norway cruise the next day. For the first time, the sun wasn’t shining in the morning, but it was dry and pleasantly warm. At my absolute favourite place on the ship, the Lanai Bar, I watched the entrance to the fjord. The Geirangerfjord is very narrow and lined with huge rock faces. Waterfalls can be spotted again and again. The low-hanging clouds gave the surrounding mountain landscape a mystical, almost dramatic appearance. The stories that the lecturer told us over the on-board loudspeaker during the journey also matched this. About half an hour before reaching the harbour in Geiranger, we passed the Suitor waterfall on the starboard side and the Seven Sisters on the port side.
Oh, the Sights!
According to legend, the Suitor wanted to marry the Seven Sisters, but each one rejected him. Frustrated, he took to the bottle and became an alcoholic – which is why the Suitor Waterfall now takes the form of a bottle. The Seven Sisters – seven waterfalls that plunge 300 metres into the fjord side by side – were reduced to only four today, as it hadn’t rained much in the last few days. Sometimes only 2 or 3 waterfalls can be seen. In such cases, the Norwegians always say that some of the sisters are on holiday.
Before we docked in the harbour, we also saw the famous Adlerkehren – an 8-kilometre, serpentine section of road that connects the towns of Geiranger and Eidsdal.
Due to the limited visibility caused by the clouds, I decided against a trip to Dalsnibba, whose mountain peak rises 1500 metres above Geiranger and offers a fantastic view over the fjord in good weather conditions.
RIB Boat Tour: Geirangerfjord up close!
Instead, I had booked a 75-minute RIB boat tour through Get Your Guide to explore the fjord from the water. The speedboat took us very close to the Seven Sisters, the Suitor waterfall and other interesting parts of the fjord. We were even lucky enough to see an eagle up close. It was completely relaxed and unbothered by the bunch of strangers starring at it. No wonder: the tranquillity and silence of Geiranger automatically slows you down.
Must-Do: Waterfall Hike
After my boat tour, I went on the short waterfall hike that is recommended everywhere. It starts in the centre of Geiranger, crosses a small bridge and leads along the river. Finally, what felt like 5000 steps (but only were around 300) lead up to the Storfossen waterfall and the fjord centre. Once at the top, I took a breather and let the huge masses of water and the view down to the harbour take their effect on me.
Then I walked down the winding road towards the town centre. After a few hundred metres, I reached Geiranger Church, which is a listed building and is said to have stood here since around 1450. However, it was demolished and rebuilt in 1742, set on fire in 1841 and rebuilt again. The small cemetery surrounding it is an oasis of peace, and a small bench with a view of the fjord invites you to linger.
Back in the town, I strolled through the many small tourist shops before heading back to the ship via the Seawalk.
Seventh Stop: Alesund
The next morning greeted us again with bright sunshine. Today marked the last stop of our Norwegian trip: The Art Nouveau town of Alesund, around 240 kilometres north-east of Bergen. The special thing about Alesund is that the town extends over several islands, which we could clearly observe later from the local mountain, Aksla. Aksla is the number one destination for all Alesund tourists. And as Mein Schiff 7 was also in the harbour with us that day, it was probably going to be crowded on the local mountain.
Aksla: 400 Steps and One Gorgeous View!
That’s why we set off on the arduous journey at 06:50 am. There are more than 400 uneven steps to climb before you are rewarded with a wonderful panoramic view over the town, the harbour and the surrounding area. At 07:20 in the morning, we were almost the only guests. For a while, we just enjoyed the exclusive view and took some pictures.
Exploring the City
Then it was time for the descent, which turned out to be much more pleasant. A small forest path winds its way back to the town centre. There we strolled through the town centre. We saw the lighthouse and the church of Alesund, the harbour and numerous pretty Art Nouveau houses. There are also plenty of shopping opportunities.
After reaching our target of 10,000 steps shortly after 9 a.m., we treated ourselves to a cappuccino and the obligatory cinnamon bun in a patisserie. I also got a very tasty-looking carrot cake for my mum’s upcoming birthday. Then it was ‘All aboard’ again and off to the hammock for a little afternoon nap. A short time later, ‘Sail Away’ was blasted throughout the ship for the last time on this trip. I was a little wistful: in the hustle and bustle of everyday life in the big city, I would probably think about the peace and beauty of Norway quite often.
Farewell, Norway! We will meet again!
Norway and Norway’s fjords are more than worth travelling to! I was mesmerised by the raw beauty of this Scandinavian country. For me, this cruise was the best and easiest way to see a lot of Norway in a short time and get a good impression of this beautiful, wild area of earth. I was fascinated by the country and its people. The Norwegians I met along the way all seemed to be very relaxed and friendly. Even when tourists were criss-crossing the small villages and blocking roads, the drivers (all of whom were driving electric cars, by the way) remained calm. Quite unlike in Germany, where there would have been honking, tailgating and lots of swearing.
One thing is already certain: I will definitely be back soon.
